Taipei, Republic of China / Taiwan

Coming to Taipei after Hong Kong is not fair to Taiwanese capital. And then in addition it is cold here (that is 25 degrees or less)... At first glance Taipei looks like any large, modern town in a highly developed country. Main sites are surrounded by streets of shopping malls, business districts and busy people. Only sometimes you come across colourful and lively night markets that Taipei is so famous of. For me however there were more like an exception to the rule, no longer an integral part of the city but rather an enclave constrained to few alleys in the middle of clean streets full of traffic. The truth is that the richer the country the more difficult it is to see what it is really like. You can still see enough to buy in to the story that guidebooks or reviews want to sell to you, but it takes time and inquisitiveness to reach beyond the facade, to see the unexpected. It is not that going random makes it any more real, factual or unique, but it just makes it more of your own, however good, bad or unbalanced of the experience it might be.
Taipei is certainly lively and vibrant. But for me it comes surprisingly close of my idea of an ideal Asian city movie scenery. All looks normal, comfortable and clean but there are dark alleys behind neon-lit streets, run-down whisky bars, red massage parlours and dodgy restaurants full of tattooed businessmen. It is like when you leave the cinema but you still live the movie and look for a next car chase or a kissing couple in the middle of the street. Or maybe this is just what I imagined exists behind the colourful facade...

Hong Kong

If you have a spare week and some money still left from a yearly bonus this is the best place to visit. My favourite town I have ever been to. Period.

Hong Kong has all in one - scenery, culture, food, entertainment, shopping and lots more. Whatever you want it`s here. It certainly does not come cheap but there are few bargains, like 10$ lunch at 1-Michelin star restaurant. People could be nicer though, a strange mix of business-oriented Chinese, seemingly party-oriented Brits (of the few that stayed) and all others who try to outdo the former or the latter. But hey it is still better than in most of the big world alpha cities.

Coming to Hong Kong made me wonder if I could live here. Forgetting all the advantages the quality of life in 30sq meters, 2,000$-rent apartment on a 40th floor in the shade of a neighbouring skyscraper cannot be the highest. One week is enough. And next one is hopefully soon...

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Google maps: Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Ha Long Bay is a Unesco World Heritage Site and consists of thousands of limestone karsts and isles of various shapes and sizes. It is also a tourist epicentre of Vietnam with thousands of visitors every day. So it is really hard to escape the crowds even if you on a small boat. There are so many other boats around you that you never feel alone.
But then even despite the crowds and grey weather it is still an amazing site. Especially when you take a kayak and paddle to a secluded lagoon just when everyone else has already left for dinner. Or when you sit at night on a terrace of your boat anchored in a small bay sipping Hanoi beer. Until now Vietnam was fun, but not really spectacular or breathtaking - we had to wait for the best for last...

Hue, Vietnam

Google maps: Hue, Vietnam

Hue is just a 4-hour bus ride North from Hoi An. Hue was a capital city of Nguyen`s dynasty Vietnamese Empire for most of the XIX century and French colonial times until 1945 (French authorities governed out of Hanoi though).
The city was basically built out of the scratch following Emperor`s Gia Long reunification of South and North Vietnam in 1802. The city's citadel, the forbidden city and royal tombs aim to rival that of Chinese emperors but at the same time similarly prove the weakness of Asian empires of XIXth century so easily overrun by Western colonialists. It seems like Gia Long`s successors spent most of the time in court intrigues, perfecting the imperial etiquette and economically isolating the country from the foreign involvement. All of it ruined the country which eventually fell to the French in mid-XIX century. The puppet Emperors still pretended to rule out its palaces but basically spent time just entertaining themselves and building around. It is no surprise then that Vietnamese people quickly disposed of them once they finally regained their independence.
Hue was just a silent observer of Vietnamese history and as located in the middle of the country, only 70km South from demarcation zone, it often suffered heavily. For Northern Vietnamese it exemplifies the feudal history and for Southerners it still reminds of the glorious past. The US also played a role here heavily bombing the city in 1968 and retaking it following Vietcongs`s Tet offensive. The historical importance of the city seem to also be the reason why it has so many ideological posters, flags and Ho Chi Minh memorials. It is hard to believe it all happened in a small, but vibrant town on Perfume River...

Hoi An, Vietnam

Google maps: Hoi An, Vietnam

Again it took some days since my last post. Vietnam kind of slows you down :-)
After Saigon we went for slow and relaxing but uneventful beach days at Nha Trang surrounded with fellow Russian beach and vodka lovers. Then moved on by crazy bus trip to Hoi An, a sleepy tourist town in the middle of Vietnam.
Hoi An is one of these towns that used to be an important trade centres but due to tricky politics and changing geography lost its status and wealth. The speed of the decline was a blessing in disguise though - it helped to preserve the unique architecture of XVI century Asian trade town. It is a bit like Belgian Brugge only a bit younger. And similarly during the day it is drowned with tourists, dotted with little shops and cafes but then completely dies out in the evening. But unlike in Brugge the food here is amazing (supposedly Vietnam's best) and beer is not. In Hoi An they still miss chocolate shops but given the clientele they will appear here soon...

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

Google maps: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

When I got to Vietnam, I had a feeling we left Cambodia too soon. The Cambodian feeling, the people, the sites will definitely merit a trip back. Or maybe it was just a contrast to crazy, hectic and bustling Ho Chi Minh City. We started bad getting screwed by a taxi driver (after all the experience and precautions it still happens) but then it was only better. The city has few sites, two must-see Vietnam war museums but above all has a lot of energy of one of upcoming world's big cities with big aspirations.
But despite all that the main thing I'll remember from Saigon was riding a scooter in the city's crazy traffic. And I have not even been the designated driver! Sitting on a back seat I was just a mere ballast at the mercy of Pawel's riding skills and imagination of fellow bikers. Every traffic lights you start in between 30 or more, you can slow down but never stop, trying to follow the crowd and avoid being crashed into by pushing wave at the back, and all the time feeling the exhausts of other bikes on your legs. But then there are also roundabouts, where scooters going in all directions mix with cars, bus and vans... But as they say you need to do like the locals do so even I gave it a try and was quickly waved by local parking security guys screaming 'Slowly! Slowly!'. But they did not know I just have not figured out the breaks yet...

Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Google maps: Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

I could not really make up my mind about Angkor Wat. I must say the expectations were high after so much hype. Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world is just one of many temples and monuments, all once located in the middle of the city with one million inhabitants and the capital of mighty Khmer Empire.
It is a must-see, it is impressive, almost intimidating by its size, symmetry, precision of the decoration, but for me it is not beautiful. It seems empty, misses history around it, too big for the jungle it inhabits nowadays. It needs the magic of sunrise or sunset to really come to life, or the energy of invading surrounding jungle to become moving and vivid. This is maybe the fault of the Khmer rulers that built the temples in 12th century but more as a proof of their own power rather than out of devotion to their Gods. And many Gods there were, Hindu Vishna or Shiva, Theravada or Mahayana Buddha. The religion did not matter, what counted was the might of the living God-king. And as such it was temporary and short lived. The Empire fell to the Thais, the city was abandoned probably after the collapse of the life-giving irrigation system.
Now Angkor Wat is just a proof of former glory and the city's grandeur. Unlike European cities built around mediaeval cathedrals, the city around it is gone. The stones remained magnificent, but the jungle, dust and empty space made the majestic spirit of the place barely imaginable...

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

After short stopover in Bangkok I hit the road again. Coming to Cambodia I expected little difference to Thailand but Cambodia proved so much more welcoming. Even though it is still poor it is developing fast and counting on tourism to be one of its main industries.
And Phnom Penh felt so much more relaxing, intense but peaceful. But visiting the city it is hard to escape its tragic past. It was at the centre of one of the biggest man planned and executed torture and mass killings in human history. During four years 1975-79 of the Khmer Rouge regime under Pol Pot's dictatorship almost 2 millions of Cambodians (1/4th of the country's population) died as a result of organized genocide or starvation.
Driven by outrageous ideas of agrarian communism, the city of 2 millions inhabitants in just a year became a mere village of 32 thousands. An operation of this size hinged on ruthlessness of the regime's security apparatus and Phnom Penh's notorious Tuol Sleng (S-21) had the worst reputation. Now as museum the prison is sober, silent and grey but still causes chills to go down your spine. Shockingly despite all that mounting evidence it took almost 30 years to get only few of the perpetrators to answer for their crimes. Pol Pot, French educated math teacher, died untroubled in house arrest in 1997. And many of his victims still remain unidentified...

Yangon, Myanmar / Burma

It took me some days to write a new post. Last days in Burma were really adventurous, small back roads, great people and first hand insight into real Myanmar. A week ago I was looking forward to going back to Bangkok and Cambodia, but when the moment came I was so sad to go... But then decided to finish in a style and opted for a classy restaurant on a last evening. Unfortunately as it often does, after eating street food for weeks, it was a big disappointment. The worst was that eventually famous revenge of Asia finally got me after two months. I think it was the white table cloth. Luckily enough I had a private room in Bangkok...

But Burmese food is not so bad :-) Oily but generous, few vegetables but amazing fruits, bony meat but tasty fish. And curry is just a small part of the whole dish. There  is always plenty of side dishes to go with - they are not very diverse though. Boiled fish paste, dried fish paste, pound fish paste, fish paste curry and powder fish paste to name just a few. And you can always ask for fish soup as an extra side dish...

Kyaiktiyo, Myanmar / Burma

Google maps: Kyaiktiyo, Myanmar / Burma

Another change of plans. Some parts of Myanmar / Burma are still off limits to tourists, some used to be open but are now shut again, like Western cities of Sittwe and pagodas-filled Mrauk U.

It would be however too easy to give up on Burma and head for the comfort of Thai beaches so I decided to hit the less visited Southeastern Myanmar / Burma.

But Kyaiktiyo pagoda or Golden Rock is certainly not a back street site though as it is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in whole of the country. Only problem is that it is up on a hill 5-hour trek from a base camp. Luckily enough Burmese dislike hiking in 35 degrees as much as I do so there is an alternative. How many people can squeeze into the back of medium Nissan truck? Apparently 50 (if not for me it would be 51) plus the driver. And what a ride it was... It was as if a packed city bus was put on a rollercoaster, only there was no seatbelts and airbags, just a Buddha image on a windscreen. I was dead scared but other people were just sipping tea, eating crisps and chewing betel leaves and looked like no pilgrims rather as shoppers heading for the market.

But once we got to the top, it seemed like it was just more of a market than a holy place. Any Burmese religious site looks like a combination of sacred place and small town bazaar. And vendors sell not only food, drinks and Buddha statues, but everything from toys, clothing to Chinese electronics.

But all second thoughts disappear when you finally see the Golden Rock. It is a very small pagoda built on a granite boulder all covered in golden leaves. The boulder seems to defy gravity as it appears just about to roll down the hill. But as legend says it stands on the strand of the Buddha's hair so human laws no longer apply here. Early morning filled with candlesticks' scent, monks' chanting and pilgrims silence makes it all encapsulating. But them again walking around Kyaiktiyo pagoda you can also see people picnicking, young monks playing with remote-controlled cars, kids running with fake wooden guns in between praying adults. In Burma sacrum mixes with ordinary every day life as if one could not be separated from the other. Coming to Kyaiktiyo is worthwhile not only for the Golden Rock but also for a first-hand insight into Burmese Buddhism. And two rides on a rollercoaster...

Inle lake, Myanmar/ Burma

Google maps: Inle lake, Myanmar / Burma

Burma is beautiful but hectic and dusty, so it is so unexpected to find yourself in a peaceful and tidy place. Inle lake is not just a lake but the whole ecosystem with its indigenous people, way of living and culture. The lake might be only 2-4 meters deep or even less but it is a centre of everything here. The houses look fragile suspended over the water on wooden poles, fishermen continuously patrol the lake by leg-rowing (unique local skill) in search of the best catch, even schools, pagodas and monasteries are built on water, not to mention floating gardens - vegetable plantations with their roots freely suspended in water (delicious tomatoes). This is one of these places you hear off or watch on Discovery but somehow doubt it is real that people can live this way. They not only do but have the biggest smiles in Burma too - but this might be also thanks to no dust and milder weather here...

Bagan, Myanmar / Burma

Google maps: Bagan, Myanmar / Burma


Bagan is often regarded as one of the forgotten grand cities of the past. It is not so forgotten now as it is probably Myanmar's / Burma's biggest tourist attraction.
Bagan (Pagan) Empire ruled today's Burma and most of current Thailand for over 200 years with Bagan as its capital from 1044 to 1287. The Empire flourished and prospered so kings, devout Buddhists, found an honest hobby and went completely crazy about building temples. Building frenzy lasted over 200 years almost until the year of the Empire's collapse and left over 10,000 religious monuments, including 1,000 large stupas. With Empire lost (Mongols helped) the city was completely abandoned until mid-19th century, but still now is rather small with only barely 20,000 inhabitants. All past wooden buildings and palaces are long gone but still remaining are 4,000 brick and stone temples that survived 700 years of neglect, erosion, earthquakes and thieves.
The kings were no petty builders and the place is overwhelming even today. The temples fill up Bagan's plain up to the horizon, all unique, high up to 63m, all lavishly decorated inside and outside. The sunrise view makes you quickly forget the 10-hour boat trip, sleepless night and 4,30am wake up call. You get more amazed with every minute, every temple revealing itself with the morning sun. One could spend months here exploring each of them one by one. I however kept wandering what the whole place must have been like during its peak if this is what is left. Today, similarly as WS Maugham wrote in 1930s, it is just a vague recollection of a fantastic dream. And what a fantastic dream it must have been...

Mandalay, Myanmar / Burma

Google maps: Mandalay, Myanmar / Burma

WS Maugham wrote that Mandalay sounds magical solely by the sound of its name, the same as Trebizond, Kathmandu or Samarkand. But despite the magical name Mandalay proved to be just a dusty ugly town though with broad, straight streets and out-of-the-proportions 4km2 square palace surrounded by a 64m-wide moat situated right in the middle of the town. What proved special however was not the city, despite few highlights, but my 'road to Mandalay' paraphrasing R Kipling. It was supposed to be an easy night bus ride...
Yangon bus station is an amazing 20km north of the city centre so I calmly tried to get there by taxi. But as the price after negotiations (8US$) was almost as high as the bus ticket itself (12US$) I opted for a city bus. First I need to find one and knowing the number (43) should help. The problem is however that Burmese do not use Latin numbers and there is no real bus stops so you just need to wave to the one just passing by guessing quickly the number and destination. Maybe taxi is not so bad in the end... After 1,5h ride through a jammed city we crossed a little bridge (the only entry point), paid our fee and arrived at the proud Aung Mingalar Bus Station. The sight was surreal. It was like the place where buses live and sleep. Like a small disorganized town but as far as you could see there were buses, just standing or being washed, repaired, painted, with their tyres being changed or pumped, packed, unpacked or simply aimlessly running on a neutral gear. Huge place. How will I find my 'terminal'? My taxi driver left my at the crossroads and showed to the right. But there were at least 50 buses all marked with Burmese letters only! But just when I started to panic suddenly some guy took my backpack and run without saying anything. I followed shocked and of course got to the right place. How did he knew? The bus box, I would not dare to call it a terminal, looked more like a combination of tv room and forgotten post office with over 20 people - who is from the company and who's just a traveller was impossible to say. TV was showing DVDs with kids' talent shows carefully followed by large group of devoted teenagers, while the place itself was swamped with boxes and packages or all types and sizes. I asked if this was the right place but with several 'yes, yes, yes' I did not really feel reassured.
Yet there was still 30min to departure time. After 30min of no activity I became more insistent. The responsible showed up and took my ticket,  passport and carefully wrote my last name as Piotr on a bus diagram. Ok, ready to go, but I asked for a toilet first. The guy proudly showed me the dark field behind the box, shared with bus repair facilities and animal farm. I decided to take my chances... The bus was 30 min late when things started moving. Someone gave me a bag tag and disappeared with my backpack into the dark. Then all the boxes started to be loaded. Then unpacked as the bigger ones could not fit. Finally an hour later I was showed in and froze immediately. The A/C was put on 20C or less... I panicked trying to find my backpack. I was told it is next to my seat along with complimentary water, wet towel and toothbrush! With my long trousers and shirt on I was ready to go. After all this falling asleep was easy... Few hours of a smooth ride and suddenly an alarm came on. Lights flashed multicolor, music yelled loudly and the bus stopped. Dinnertime! Huge parking, bigger then any autobahn equivalents, next to Pioneer Food Court. Flashy fountains, plastic lions and rhinos, paper palm trees, all in pink and blue and in the size of average Belgian shopping mall - you get the idea. I bought a Coke and went back to the bus but it was shut dead for another 25 minutes... But then we moved on again. I put on my last jumper and went back to sleep. The fluorescent loud alarm woke me up again. It was 4.30am and we've arrived, 30min ahead of schedule... I got out in Mandalay or rather bus stop 10km south of the city. Then negotiations started - with no-one to share a taxi with I was left with the choice of 10US$ taxi or 4US$ scooter. With two backpacks and heavy me I obviously went for the scooter and funny guy called Lenlo. Good marketer as he was he proposed not to go straight to the hotel, probably shut now anyway, and head for the sites. Sunrise at U Bein Bridge and early prayers at Mahamuni Paya made the whole trip worthwhile. I finally arrived at the hotel at 10am happy but unconscious and went straight to sleep. I woke up hangovered 2h later. I have finally arrived in Mandalay...

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar / Burma

Google maps: Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon

There is not many things like it anywhere in the world. W.S. Maugham in its "The Gentelman in the Parlour" described it like a giant ship surrounded by lighters, severe and splendid. For me it was more like a mountain, aloof but somehow cosy and familiar, the one you respect but visit often and get to know well. Sunrise over the pagoda makes it even more special. Early worshipers pray silently, monks meditate to the sound of the smaller and bigger bells. All combines together into one golden coloured landscape where men cherish what seems more of the God's creation.

But apart from its beauty and magnificence (112m high) it is above all the most sacred Buddhist pagoda for the Burmese with the relics of the past four Buddhas enshrined within, including eight strands of hair from Gautama, the historical Buddha. The legend says it is 2.600 years old and was built by two merchant brothers who actually met Lord Buddha still in his lifetime. It is hard to verify that but undoubtedly Shwedagon Pagoda has been the centre of Burmese Buddhism and culture for centuries and will hopefully dominate Yangon's skyline for many more years to come.

Yangon, Myanmar / Burma

I really did not know what to expect of Myanmar or Burma. I always wanted to come here but felt kind of uneasy about the whole idea. And after first day in Yangon it still feels strange and certainly different than any place else... All looks familiar but somehow surprising.
Heavy traffic but no mopeds or motorbikes, usually South East Asians' favourites. Cars drive of the right but most of them have steering wheels also on the right so made for driving on the left. Then in the five-million former capital of a fifty-million inhabitants' country there is no skyscrapers, but you can still admire past glory of early 20th century colonial buildings. One of them, the Ministers' Building, former home and administrative seat of the British Burma is completely abandoned and surrounded by barbed wire since 1972 - not a great view as it covers the entire block in the downtown area. But the city is still great to walk around, watch busy street life and experience back alleys. However unexpectedly this lively town by day comes almost to a standstill after sunset, as streets are only lit by passing cars and shops having their own power generators. The night market has lot to offer but certainly less then its other regional equivalents. But then you enter a supermarket and you have all you would wish for, even 1$ half a litre bottle of gin or whisky. My hotel room has flat screen tv but only one channel (Fox Movies if you ask). Finally, the people. All appear excited to see more tourists, always greet you with a wide smile, shout 'hello' and always happy to pose for a photo. But for me they also seem somehow tired and less enthusiastic, similarly like Indians... I hope in the next days I will see more of real Myanmar, as it feels there is much more to it then one can initially see, the good and the unexpected...

Chinatown, Bangkok

I thought I have all worked it out, but not the first time I got it wrong. Chinese New Year is a main holiday not only in China but also in much of South East Asia. Thailand is no different and boast of one of the largest Chinese community.
On the eve of a New Year (10th February this year) families gather for so-called Reunion Dinner, kind of Polish Xmas Eve dinner. At least so I thought... Yaowarat, main Bangkok's Chinatown artery was supposed to be deserted... To my surpirse I have not seen so many people in one place since the pope (previous one obviously) was last time in Poland. All temples, street food stalls were completely overrun. Based on quick analysis, I concluded that maybe they finished eating earlier and now went out for traditional 'bainian', visiting of friends and family. So as I finally understood what's going on I was expecting typical New Year celebrations. Firecrackers could be heard from far. But then again I was told that fireworks are only for 31st Dec and this time there would be very few. I did not give up. Seeing all this people around something will happen. It will but as I was told again it would be only the next day... I guess all this other people made the same mistake as me. But they'll come to Yaowarat tomorrow when I'll be on my way to Myanmar.
Dissapointed I sat down to enjoy some Chinese theatre. New Year character was fighting Old Year and all other evils - at least so I was told. Luckily enough the New Year has won...
Happy New Year of the Snake to all of you! 'Keong Hee Huat Chye' (in Hokkien), congratulations and be prosperous!

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Google maps: Chiang Mai, Thailand

I was supposed to be in Myanmar/Burma already from Tuesday but opted for few more relaxing days in Thailand instead. And there is no better place than Chiang Mai known for great hiking, beautiful temples and best Thai cooking classes, so my type of right mix. As I did a lot of hiking last time round now focus was primarily on praying and eating, or rather taking photos of Buddhas (never boring) and blind tasting rice noodles from egg noodles and jasmine rice from sticky rice.And I have finally expanded my Thai menu a bit - not only green curry, pad thai and tom yam soup but also papaya salad, mango rice and delicious stir-fry. And yet another time I realised that if the ingredients are fresh and tasty you cannot really mess it up unless you burn it or add too much salt. Yet it can still happen even to the best of us :-)

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

After 13-day Malaysian adventure, we are back in Bangkok. Piotr left on Sunday back to PL but Marta joined me for another two days in Bangkok. Then on my own, at least for some time :-)
I was in Malaysia for the first time five years ago and since then it has not lost its edge. Economically it is fast catching up and really feels like EU or US are not so far off. Especially given that for Malaysians EU or US still seem like places to be, visit or buy. Yet despite being surrounded by young Malays wearing Chelsea t-shirts, eating KFCs, parading with fake Guccis and drinking Coca-Colas (no light or zero versions though), it is still an authentic cultural melting pot full of curious people living in narrow streets and eating street food by run down corners. Touristically Borneo proved to be one of the best places I've seen. Not so spectacular in the Taj Mahal's type of way but much more relaxed, not so overcrowded, full of unexpected and very welcoming. Sometimes going to the places you do not know much about before actually getting there, can be not only surprising but much fun too despite some extra stress.
From Malaysia I will best remember Penang's food, view of Kuala Lumpur from Petronas Towers' 86th floor, long red-nose Proboscis monkeys and sentimental Orangutans, turquoise water surrounding Palau Sibuan and Bum Bum's house on water. And funny taxi driver in Kuching saying 'ok' all the time - Borneo people nice, ok; you not lose weight here, ok; you enjoy, ok. Ok, I certainly did...

Bum Bum island, Malaysian Borneo

Google maps: Palau Bum Bum, Semporna Archipelago

Semporna is a scary place - dirty, dangerous with dodgy people aimlessly wandering around. It is hard to believe it is a departure point to dream-like archipelago dotted on the Celebes sea. Leaving Semporna we did not really know what to expect - we booked Monkey Dives Lodge basically by chance based on few good reviews. When we arrived there we realised it is not even on land but like most of the houses here is standing on wooden poles straight out of the sea. Jump into the sea and all the dissappointments with Semporna are gone. And then it got even better - Sibuan and Mantabuan islands are not so popular as Jacques' Cousteau nearby favourite Sipadan but I really cannot imagine how it can any prettier, on the land or snorkeling in the sea. I'm definitely coming back here for longer one day and not only two lousy days - am I becoming beach tolerant? But maybe it is not the beach but just turquoise sea...

Sepilok, Sandakan, Malaysian Borneo

Google maps: Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary

Sepilok near Sandakan is a worldwide known Orangutans' rehabilitation centre. Injured, ill or orphaned apes  are cared for here and prepared for being returned to the wild. The area is massive, a piece of wild jungle where Orangutans can learn their skills to safely return to where they belong. Normally Orangutans are very difficult to see in the wild but here they are lured to specific spots for supplementary feeding twice daily. There is a fruiting season now so this time only few of them came but it still made the whole experience unforgettable.

Orangutan means "person of the forest" - Orang Utan in Malay / Indonesian, and it really feels like they are not so different from us humans. They are said to be the most intelligent out of all the great apes, use tools and communicate extensively but it is more their behaviour, body posture that make their resemblance to humans unique. They can stand up straight, make faces, go bald, kiss each other, frown their eyebrows and fold their arms. They are also very hairy, live on trees and survive on fruits and leaves but there is really something special - I am not so sure the feeling is mutual though as many of them actually end up in Sepilok because of us.

Kuching, Malaysian Borneo

Google maps: Kuching, Malaysia

We have not even planned to come here. Initially the plan was to climb the Mount Kinabalu in northern Borneo but steep prices (300€ for two-night trek) kept us away and we settled for Kuching instead. The place is well known among the locals but completely new to me. Maybe it was the low expectations, maybe the local people saying 'hello' all the time or relaxing atmosphere but the place is great with loads to see around. Hiking in the jungle, swimming in South China Sea, watching Orangutans and funny Proboscis monkeys (with noses like bacterias from 'Il etait une fois... la vie' or 'Bylo sobie zycie') and eating local laksa, breakfast spicy soup. It would be perfect if only gin & tonic was a bit cheaper :-)

Melaka, Malaysia

Google maps: Melaka, Malaysia

First time Unesco let me down. Usually it always indicates a site worth visiting and exploring, but it seems like this time they just bought a great story. And Melaka has a great one to tell. It is located on the shores of the strategic Melaka Straits (now and before one of the world's busiest sea routes) so it was born to be a powerhouse. Indian traders set it up, Chinese took it over to be later overrun by Malays who created the powerful Melaka Sultanate. This drew the Portuguese in mid-16th century, but they cared too much about religion and after 100 years the Dutch showed them the way out. They on the other hand cared only about trade and were eventually replaced by British, who traded but also applied divide-and-rule tactics supported by some warships and rifles. All communities left their mark on Melaka - Indians their cuisine, Chinese their trade shops, Malays left nothing but current local government built few replicas, Portuguese left a church now in ruins, Dutch a town hall (Stadhuys) and British their administrative system. It is a great story of East meeting West and history repeating itself; it is only pity for the tourists that in spite of the story there is really nothing to see here... (the food was still good :-)

Georgetown, Penang Island

Google maps: Georgetown, Penang Island, Malaysia

After fun of the Thai islands we followed all the backpacking crowd down south and got to Malaysian island of Penang. Georgetown does not sound very Malay and it really is not - it feels more like Chinese, but then once you cross the street it becomes Indian to only few meters further become English colonial to end up Malay on a next corner. You can eat coconut rice (nasi lemak) or Indian masala dosa for breakfast, then for lunch or dinner noodles fried or in soup malay, chinese or indian style, Indonesian satay or Thai curries - and you have plenty of hawker food places to choose from. And then you have Unesco World Heritage sites neighbouring vibrant port city with intriguing murals scattered all-around (see photos).

But what really made me think is how all this different cultures come seemingly effortlessly together and complement each other. There were some major clashes in the past, especially when Malaysia was developing its own post-colonial identity, but Penang kept its uniqueness.  Big cities have their Chinatowns or Little Indias but here in Penang all these cultures are equal partners and not just an awkward distraction. Truly multicultural. This is how I always thought Sarajevo had been, but I just came too late to see it for myself. I hope in Penang it is here to stay for longer.Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia...

Jansom Bay, Ko Tao

In Ko Tao you need to either be cool or go fancy. If you want to be cool you can stay in 20$ bungalows, eat street food but need to do diving (freediving would be the coolest), drink buckets, party till late, ride a scooter and above all have a big tattoo. If you go fancy you need to choose one of 200$ a night resort & spas, move by speedboat, drink cocktails, eat romantic dinner and above all do not mix with the cool bunch.
I am neither of the two. I stay in cheap beach bungalow (great!), only do snorkelling, drink cocktails, eat street food (so much better) and still have no tattoo (unlike 2/3 of the island) - so I am definitely not cool, certainly not yet fancy but while sitting on a beach sipping gin & tonic I feel kind of relaxed...

Ko Tao

Google maps: Ko Tao, Thailand

Most tourists coming to Thailand visit Bangkok, maybe Chiang Mai in the north and spend the most of the time on the islands in the south. Sandy beaches, amazing dive spots, tattoo shops, cheap drinks and Thai food - almost paradise so you cannot really not like it. Or can you?

You can always be very un-cool and get Bon Jovi tattoo, drink Heineken and eat pizza and kebab (the same price as pad thai - disgrace!), or like in my case force yourself to spending time on a beach (which I kinda hate). In South America with Ewa we spent barely two days in Punta del Este and still we were mostly walking - which was great fun btw! With Piotr, my travel companion here, even though a beach is 20m from our bungalow we have not even touched the sand. So why did I really come here? To really see what all the fuss is about and then consciously avoid coming here again -but we will see; snorkelling tomorrow will be decisive. Just in case there is always afternoon ferry back to the mainland - there is still plenty of temples to see :-)

Bangkok

It feels like 2007 again... Not much has changed in Bangkok, or maybe in Khao San Road, a backpackers' mecca. It is still the place to go for cheap hotel, good food a plenty of booze straight out of little buckets (200ml Thai vodka for 5€ - you guess the quality, effect as desired). I am only now in my thirties as David Brent from 'The Office' used to say - the feeling is the same. Still no tattoo or dreadlocks :-)
As I saw the best sights already last time so now it is really about the ambiance and the food (surprised?:-) . And Bangkok is great because best food does not come from fancy restaurants but lost food stalls or plastic tables' bars. And it is so tasty - green curries, pork satays, tom yam soups or papaya salads - whatever actually... Only I never know is it really the food or holidays too...

Brussels

Landing in Brussels felt odd - kind of like home but just felt amazed when hearing the airport announcements that people actually speak Flemish and French rather than Polish... Or maybe Poland looks more like Belgium now, or maybe I was just slow after waking up at 3.30am. After two months it felt good to be back, meet friends, visit favourite places and enjoy being bruxellois. See you back in April...